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The Size

We are often asked what measurements an enclosure must have to house a snake of a particular size.

The Federal Department of Agriculture and Forestry has consulted a group of “animal protection and captive husbandry experts” to get an expert opinion on the "minimum requirements for the captive husbandry of reptiles". It would be beyond the scope of this book to list the required measurements for every species, and we therefore limit it to Boa constrictor and tree pythons (Chondropython viridis). These two examples can be referred to when estimating the requirements for other snakes fairly well.

For better understanding, here an example: You have a Boa constrictor of 1,60m (over 5 ft) in length.

The measurements of the enclosure are then calculated as follows:

1,60 m x 0,75 = 1,20 m (length of the enclosure);

1,60 m x 0,5 = 0,80 m (depth of the enclosure);

1,60 m x 0,75 = 1,20 m (height of the enclosure).

These calculations are valid for two specimen of that size, which can then be kept together in one enclosure of the determined size.

It should be added that this expert opinion has not yet been implemented into the legislature, and can therefore only serve as recommendation at this point. We would also like to mention that we consider these values to be overkill, especially in regards to height, even though the maximum height given is 2 meters (over 6.5 ft).

We therefore recommend bright, coated wood sheets (19 mm) with a front made of natural wood and generously sized sliding doors (6 mm). An enclosure made from these materials retains heat relatively well, while urine and feces are easy to remove, since the coating keeps it from penetrating the wood.

The Heating Source

We strongly discourage people from using ground heaters, especially those with a high wattage, because the snakes lay on them and dry out. We have received several calls from people seeking advice, because their python was having a bad shed and looking very wrinkled. These people swear that the humidity lies above 60%. Right, but not immediately on the ground heater! Measure that spot sometime, and you will be very surprised: 35% or less are no rarity. Unfortunately, the snakes love these spots, because they are nice and warm. They are simply too stupid to realize that resting on a strong heat pad or heating cable is slowly but surely killing them.

Other keepers use ground heat to place the water bowl on top. This leads to nice and warm water, which makes for an excellent breeding ground for bacteria. We have thrown out all of the heating cables and mats years ago, and we have not regretted this once.

The following photos are for those of you who don't believe in guard boxes:

The infrared heating source can be mounted at the ceiling of the enclosure, towards the first or second third (in length).

It can be controlled by a thermostat, whose probe constantly measures the inside temperature and shuts off the heating source when the desired temperature is reached, and turns it on when the reverse is the case.

A good choice is the "Biotherm 2000" by Dohse Aquaristik, Otto-Hahn-Str. 9, in 53501 Grafschaft-Gelsdorf, Germany. We have been using the "Biotherm" since entering this hobby, and so far none of these units have failed to function in any way.

Here is the website of the company: http://www.dohse-aquaristik.de/

The Substrate

Unfortunately, the perfect substrate does not exist. Need examples? Here you go:

• Sterilized soil or mulch conceals feces

• Gravel rocks let the urine seep through

• Wood shavings, sand, and seramis get into the animal’s mouth during feeding (and the dust gets in the nose)

• Artificial grass (the green stuff, you know) is difficult to clean, and will often retain some of the cleaning fluid

•  

We have decided on newspaper as substrate. Professor Werner Frank from the Institute for Parasitology at the University of Hohenheim had introduced newspaper as substrate 15 years ago. The newsprint acts slightly antibacterial and, contrary to public opinion does not harm the snakes (SCHAD, pers. comm.).

Newspaper is wonderful to handle, one can simply roll it up whenever the snakes have done their business; a little whipping afterwards, and its done. The enclosure should be completely cleaned at least once a month anyways. Newspaper as substrate significantly decreases the necessary effort involved. The only negative factor is the optical aspect, but the sight of a pretty snake will not be spoiled by anything.

The Ventilation

Boas and pythons require significantly less oxygen (unless they are digesting a large prey item) than mammals. Therefore, large sized vents are not necessary, since too much ventilation places a burden on the humidity, as the heat source has to operate more frequently.

The vents can be made by ways of mesh or by simple drill-holes. Best suitable for this are the sidewalls of the enclosure. The physical law of warm air rising and cool air sinking has to be considered here.

Hence, the vent that is closest to the heat source should be placed towards the bottom, while the one on the other side should be placed towards the top of the enclosure wall.

Branches

Branches are especially crucial for arboreal boids.  Tree pythons (Chondropython viridis) and emerald tree boas (Corallus caninus) would not be adequately kept without thick branches.

It is recommended to mount the branches in a way that allows for easy maintenance and quick dismount. To keep pests from entering the enclosure, all bark should be removed from the branches prior to use.

Instead of branches, we prefer removable shelves that can also be used for climbing. Snakes love these elevated shelves, and they are also easier to clean than branches.

Hide Spots

The proper husbandry of boids also requires a spot, at which the animals are able to hide. Suppliers offer cork bark for this purpose, which is normally readily accepted by boas and pythons. Unfortunately, those barks are not easy to clean. We therefore use clay pots that are normally used for plantings. A cutting tool can be utilized to cut an adequate opening for the snakes into the pot. The container is then placed upside down in the enclosure, and the hide box is ready to go. These clay pots can be washed (which you should definitely do from time to time), as well as heated in the oven, in order to kill harmful germs.

However, for a quarantine enclosure or poor people, a card box with a small opening for the snake to crawl in will do just fine.

The Water Container

Occasionally, some of the handymen among the snake keepers get the idea to install a built-in water container into the enclosure. This luxury pool is then outfitted with a separate drain, and becomes the pride of its maker.

But, our handyman has already made his first mistake at this point. The water container is the largest potential source of germs and bacteria in the enclosure. Pathogenic agents, such as Pseudomonas aeroginosa, which can cause infections in the stomach and intestine tract, as well as the lungs, prefer that type of moist environment.   

Therefore, the drinking and bathing water for the snake must be changed daily (!) – I repeat, daily (!).When doing so, you should thoroughly rinse the container, clean it with a brush and a 30% vinegar solution, and then thoroughly rinse it again before filling it with fresh water. Doing this with a water container that is built into the enclosure involves a lot of effort.

The second reason for using a simple, removable container as a waterbowl is to regulate the humidity within the enclosure. The evaporation rate depends on the size of the water container. If the humidity is too low, you can simply place a larger (or maybe even two) water bowl(s) in the enclosure, or, if it is too high, you can use a smaller one.

The humidity within the enclosure is strongly influenced by the outside temperature. In cold months, the thermostat will turn on the heat source more frequently, resulting in drier air. On muggy summer days, the opposite is the case.

By utilizing water bowls of different sizes, you are able to change the rate of evaporation and can always create ideal conditions, which is not possible with a built-in water container.

Lighting

Even though it is not really necessary to provide boids with lighting that resembles the spectrum of lighting emitted by the sun, we have noticed that the animals appear more natural in regards to their coloration when such an equipment is used. Every time we acquired a boa from a keeper who was using white or yellow neon lighting, the animal turned lighter and more colorful immediately after exposed to the lighting in our enclosures.

For this reason, you should consider spending a few extra bucks for lighting that resembles the spectrum of lighting emitted by the sun. The products of the make “Repti-Glo”, Fa. Hagen Deutschland, which are available in reptile specialty stores, have proven to be especially suitable. We mention this product here, because we have used it for years ourselves and have been very satisfied with it, even in regards to the price.

Divider

A removable divider in the enclosure is not a requirement, but very practical when housing several specimen in one enclosure, as boids should generally be separated during feeding.

Wire mesh on a hinged wooden frame that can be folded to the side when unlocked is best suitable for this. But even a design, in which the divider can be pulled out from the front, or unhinged like a sliding door is possible. There are no limits set to the imagination of the handymen.

Control Devices

A device for measuring the temperature and humidity is an absolute must for every enclosure. Reptile suppliers offer mechanical as well as digital thermometers and hygrometers.

One more hint: Do not place the measuring device at a spot where it seems especially decorative, but rather at the location at which the snake usually rests. This is the only way to determine the climatic conditions that your animal is exposed to. The variations in temperature and humidity in the different parts are often significant

This is the last part in regards to the enclosure that we would like to discuss.

We wrote a lot about plants in our book „Ratgeber Abgottschlangen“, however, we are not convinced anymore that it is a good idea to put live plants in an enclosure. The reason for this is simple, the potting soil (which needs to be watered) becomes a haven for bacteria over time, which can be harmful to the snakes.

It certainly also depends on the type of boids that you keep. Some, as for instance Boa c. imperator or the Burmese python (Python molurus bivittatus), are so hardy, that one would really have to hit it with a hammer in order to kill it. With proper care, these species barely ever become sick. Others on the other hand, such as the emerald tree boa (Corallus caninus) or the green tree python (Morelia viridis), are much more delicate.

We will later discuss in the species description, which species of boas and pythons can be considered to be hardy, and which species are prone to health problems to our knowledge.

But back to plants in the enclosure. Generally, Philodendron, Hoya, rubbertree, Benjamina, Yucca palm, and coconut palm are suitable for this, as they do very well in an enclosure. Even orchids get to bloom. However, the former are suitable for small species of boids only. A large Boa constrictor, a Burmese or reticulated python will show little regard for the plants when its time to feed and the plants are in the way of preying on a rabbit. We therefore recommend to remove all plants prior to feeding live prey.

Ivy is the only suitable plant for larger species anyways, as it is extraordinarily resistant and shows much forgiveness to the rugged affection of the animals.